Fifi Bijoux: Ética e Integridad en el Mercado Contemporáneo.

Vivien Johnston de la Joyería Fifi Bijoux, miembro de la Red de Aliados de ARM,habla sobre su compañía joyera ética, la motivación detrás de su creación y la visión de ética y lujo como un modelo de negocio para la industria del futuro.
Esta charla se ofreció en el taller de comercio justo en CASM Mongolia 2007. Para más Información sobre la Joyería Fifi Bijoux visite la página: http://www.fifibijoux.com/.

Title: Ethics and Integrity in the Contemporary Market Place

Vivien Johnston – Fifi Bijoux

Abstract:
An introduction to Fifi Bijoux as an ethical jewellery brand, the motivation behind its creation
and the vision for ethics and luxury as a business model for the future of the industry.

Introduction

SLIDE 1
It is my intention today to introduce you to my company, Fifi Bijoux, in order that we might all learn more about the products which make use of ethical, fair trade mining programmes. I will offer my personal perspective as the designer and creator of Fifi Bijoux.

I’ll explain why I came to set up the company, the challenges of doing so and discuss some of the issues of concern to ‘Fair Trade’ jewellers.

SLIDE 2

SLIDE 3

I trained as a jewellery designer at Glasgow School of Art and then worked as Head of Design for a UK jewellery company.

However, I felt so strongly about the issues of exploitation and environmental damage that I began to research alternatives to the mainstay supply chain for bullion and gems.

I was then approached by a politician who was looking for a 'fair trade' or ethical engagement ring for his human rights lobbyist girlfriend.

One commission led to another by word of mouth and I realised that there was a rising demand for ethical jewellery. I spent 18 months completing further research and then left my job to launch the Fifi Bijoux brand.

In the UK alone, the Ethical Purchasing Index showed a spend of £25.8 billion pounds in 2004. Of that, £680 million (equivalent to around $1,400 million US dollars) was spent on ethical fashion.

The ethos behind Fifi Bijoux is to offer a designer brand with the luxury value of fair trade provenance of the raw materials.

(SLIDE 4 – ‘Berlin’ Ring)

I use gold, gems and diamonds sourced from socially and environmentally responsible mining programmes. I design the products and these are made by master goldsmiths in London. Fifi Bijoux offers ready-to-wear collections as well as a bespoke design service.

I supply to retailers across the UK and am now embarking upon the export market.

My part in this is to take an ethical product to market. As I learned more about the issues arising from mining and within jewellery manufacture, I decided to take a pro-active approach and establish my own label.

 

SLIDE 5_ Sourcing Issues

Sourcing ethical suppliers
The first challenge I was to face was of course to source my raw materials.

My initial attempts were disappointing. I approached several large mining companies, bullion suppliers and well-known gem dealers.

My questions on their ethical policies were largely ignored, even having people hang up the telephone on me. Worse was to come when I was lectured at length by a gem dealer on why I was wasting my time and there were more important things which concerned him, such as profit margins.

I had, of course, known that this was the likely outcome but it confirmed my fears. The jewellery industry was facing a minefield of problems, questionable moral principles and secrecy and in the fast-approaching climate of transparency, consumer awareness and politicised buying patterns. It was failing to deliver any suitable answers.

A depressing few months followed of waiting for replies which never came, checking the CRJP website for developments and potential projects, to no avail.

The breakthrough came when I saw Greg Valerio (vice-chair of ARM and founder of Cred Foundation) on a TV morning chat show speaking about ethics in the jewellery industry. It was a breath of fresh air – I emailed him immediately.

Greg was able to give me some information about the work of ARM. A few days later I also had a reply from Colombia Gem House in the USA, whom I had contacted to request more information about their ethical criteria for gemstones.

Having successfully sourced a small amount of gold and secured an initial order of semi-precious gems, I was ready to manufacture.

SLIDE 6 –‘ RUTILE’ Pendant

My supply chain has since expanded and I’m privileged to now work with geologists and mining programmes around the world, all sharing a commitment to fair trade and promoting a positive, ethical industry.

Ethical standards
Ethics have fast become a buzz-word for attracting the now desirable ‘conscientious consumer’. Green, fair trade, sustainable, recycled, global footprints, energy efficient, carbon off-setting…the terms which are banded around vary from car manufacture to fashion to jumbo jets. It’s ok to live a hedonistic, self-indulgent and devil-may-care lifestyle, as long as you plant some trees and pay a premium to off-set your emissions!

This is the danger we face when using loose terminology. Ethics, to me, are a responsibility. That extends to my fellow mankind and to the world in which we live. Essentially, I define ethical business as that which ensures from the raw materials through to the design, and the manufacture through to the customer service; that no one suffers exploitation or that unwarranted environmental damage occurs.

In jewellery terms, precious materials are a valuable natural resource and it’s my belief that by imbuing each product with respect, my customers take pride in owning a piece of jewellery which reflects the precious and exquisite nature of the materials we use.

[SLIDE 7 – Fifi Bijoux’s policy]

I defined my own code of ethics which largely cover the International Labour Organisation and UN protocols. I have tailored these further to apply in general terms to mining, gem cutting, manufacture and production. I also apply these standards, incidentally, to suppliers of sundries such as boxes and packaging.

Currently, of course there is no official and independent system of verifying my protocols, so as it stands consumers are open to being mis-led by unscrupulous businesses who may also adopt similar policy without actually implementing these standards.

SLIDE 8 – POLICY CONT.
I know that in the near future there will be an independent auditing system, for example by the Fairtrade Labelling Organisation who can verify my receipt and use of materials. In anticipation of this, I am currently establishing a British Ethical Jewellery Association which will provide a ‘one stop’ information shop for consumers and other jewellers who wish to become members.

SLIDE 9- Fifi Bijoux standards
Experience of dealing with Asia, India
All of us here are familiar with some of the challenges of artisanal mining and what the Fair Trade Movement can offer to these communities. From my position at the end of the value chain, I thought it would be helpful to consider one of the major issues along the chain, namely the manufacture of gems and jewellery, with a special focus on Asia. The majority of manufacture takes place in Thailand, and China. India is also growing it’s reputation and export of jewellery, and I touch on further issues which arise here also.

SLIDE 10 Fifi Bijoux Standards (cont) _
Within my previous employment I began asking more questions of new manufacturers. How did these large factories we were beginning to use make any profit when we demanded such ridiculously low prices, didn’t pay them on time and yet we were making such vast margins? Often, I was being asked to negotiate products for only the price of the silver or gold, the labour costs and fashion charges were expected to vanish. I began to be suspicious of the actual ability for these factories to survive. I was aware from speaking to the staff on the factory floor that they were being forced to work under unacceptable conditions: twelve hour shifts, seven days a week and being poorly paid. Many of these staff were brought in from rural areas and relied on the income to support their families back home (where I understood, little work could be found). This cycle of exploitation is a consequence of western companies increasingly screwing the thumbnails on the manufacturers in the east for the sake of their profit. The people who suffer are those who are already desperately poor.

SLIDE 11 supply chain
As my international jewellery design network expanded, I was informed of extensive use of child labour and of the problems of gender and of caste or class in many factories, specifically in India

PAUSE FOR BREATH

In the jewellery trade, I was seeing a steam train of trouble coming our way. The drive for greater and greater profit margins had created a sinister disregard for values, product quality and reputation. In my mind, it was only a matter of time before this Dickensian neglect of human rights and this stark gap between class and culture would become a major issue for consumers. Given that my job was Head of Design, a major part of my role was ‘Trend Prediction’. I had been true and accurate on all my previous trend predictions and had learned to trust my instincts.

The jewellery industry needs cohesion and transparency. CASM’s work is an example of how an inclusive programme drives government policy, the mining sector and the miners themselves to commit to best practices. This example should be adopted throughout the jewellery sector.

Slide_12 Positive Ethical Business
To put it simply, ethics are not merely a fashionable trend to capture affluent middle class consumers. I believe ethics and integrity are tools of survival and sustainability in the contemporary market place.

Slide 13– Growth of a Market
The market for fairly traded, ethical precious jewellery is still in its infancy. However, I find the demand has grown significantly in the past 6 months, as has the interest from would-be competitors. Whilst I believe that the market could at this stage be grown effectively by a selection of competitors, I also see the potential threat of abuse of the fair trade or ethical status.

The danger lies in unscrupulous companies using the terminology to mis-lead consumers. I also fear that poor quality goods would serve to further damage the reputation of this as a movement.

In order to address this danger, it would be appropriate to develop systems for independent verification for the metals and gems (for instance, by ARM) as well as finding methods of extending this further to tackle manufacture and gem cutting. However, currently the demand for certified gold outstrips the supply and this presents a further threat as ‘fair trade jewellers’ struggle to meet demand. I supply my collections to retail stores and if I fail to meet orders, my customers lose faith in me and in the reliability of this as a process and of our ability to deliver fair trade gold.

Slide 14 Dangers of Abuse
I previously mentioned the British Ethical Jewellery Association; this is an early endeavour to address these issues which I hope will ultimately link to the work of ARM and CASM. If you would like to know more about my company or think as a supplier you meet my criteria, I’d be delighted to discuss it further after the session.

 

Slide 15 CONTACT DETAILS
www.fifibijoux.com
admin@fifibijoux.com

Ladies and gentlemen, thank you very much.

Ver Otros testimonios:
> Mitos y leyendas en la minería artesanal
> Fuego en el Hielo: Mujeres Mineras de Chorolque
“Convierten el hielo en sopa y la piedra en pan” Hacer visible lo invisible. Voz. Rostro. Identidad.
> En Búsqueda de Oro Puro
> El Diamante de Paz de Sierra Leona .Fundación CRED